The view outside my window is gray and wet, but I have a little roll of Smarties in front of me to add some color to my day. 

The sun pokes in and back out every few days, but I need color right now. I’m in the mood to share with you the rest of my skirt making tutorial because of the colorful fabric I used.  It’s a double-layered skirt with an elastic waist.  The next skirt I make like this will have a zipper in the back, since I’m not a big fan of elastic.

The first thing to note with this pattern is that because it’s an elastic waist, your pattern will not be fitted.  This means that instead of using the waistline measurement and the hip measurement when drawing your pattern, your hip measurement will be the waistline. Also, you’ll need to add an additional 2″ to the waist seam allowance on account of encasing the elastic.

Okay, so first thing you do is fold your two lengths of fabric lengthwise, inside out.  Iron it well, too.  Lay your pattern on it, with the edge of the pattern on the fold of the fabric.

Trace your pattern onto the fabric (making sure the fabric is *in fact* inside-out).  I used a sharpee for this, but you’re gonna want to use chalk, or something sensible like that.  Sharpees are not recommended.  I’m just special.

 

You can cut it out now or trace the pattern again below this one, then cut both out.  Either way, you need two pieces.  One side will be the front of the skirt, the other the back.

Do the same on the other fabric, only making the skirt shorter and wider.   We want the over skirt to be shorter and wider so that 1) you can see the underskirt and 2) the overskirt will flow freely from the underskirt. 

 

With right sides together, sew each piece of the underskirt together using a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Do the same for the overskirt.  Press the seams open.  I don’t finish my seams (which I’ll probably pay for later) but you can, using your pinking shears or a zig-zag stitch to keep the fabric from unraveling.

 

Turn the skirts right-side out then put the overskirt inside the underskirt.

It’s a little hard to tell, but the overskirt really is right-side out.  If you see the right hand corner of the skirt, you can tell the color is more lively.  Okay so line up the top edges and sew a 1/2″ seam all the way around the top of the skirt. 

When you are done, pull the skirt open butterfly style and press the seam open.

Flip the overskirt over the seam so that both the overskirt and the underskirt have the right sides out.  The way the skirt’s supposed to look. 

Press that top seam flat so that the underskirt doesn’t show on top.

Next, we’re going to pin the two layers of skirt all the way around the waistline edge  so that the fabric will not move around when you stitch it together to put the elastic in. 

Now we’re going to do some math, but only a little.  I bought a 3/4″ elastic (a yard of it is plenty) because I thought the 1/2″ was too small, personally.  In order for there to be enough wiggle room for the elastic to go through, you’ll need to make the casing a 1/4″ bigger than the elastic.   So I started stitching one inch from the top of my skirt and stopped about an inch before making it all the way around.  This space will be how you get the elastic through.

Now, grab your elastic and a safety pin.   Pin the safety pin to the edge of the elastic.  This will help you get it through the casing.

See how I pinned mine?  That was too far down the elastic.  Just pin it at the very tip, the safety pin only going through the elastic once.  It’s better that way, trust me.

Now open your skirt and find the opening to the casing.  Thread the elastic through the hole using the safety pin as a guide.  Be careful not to twist the elastic as you’re threading it through the casing.  Okay, now pull it out the other end.

Pin it together so you don’t lose your spot and try the skirt on.  Adjust the elastic tightening it as you need to for a better fit.  Pin it in its new place. Take off the skirt and open it back up.  Find the elastic and unpin it, being careful not to lose your spot.  Pull it out an inch or two, holding on to your spot, and then overlap the edges about an inch.  You’re going to sew this together using a tight zigzag stitch at either end of the overlapped section, securing the elastic together well.

 

Hopefully your stitches will not be as messy as mine.

 

Remember how we left about an inch open for the elastic to go through?  Well we need to close that.  Making sure your skirt is right-side out and all layers are where they should be, stitch that area closed!

You’ve pretty much got a finished skirt now, except for the hem.  We’re going to use a 1/2″ double-fold hem for each of the skirts. 

 

Measure a 1/2″ from the bottom of the skirt and fold it over once.  Iron it flat. 

 

Fold it over another 1/2″ and iron it flat again.  Stitch it close to the edge.

Do the same for the underskirt.  Try it on, then attempt to rig your camera to take the picture for you.  I say attempt, because inevitably you will not get to the right spot in time and the camera will shoot the picture before you’re ready. 

Embarrassing but true: this was the best out of the four or five attempts to get a decent picture.  Thankfully, you can at least see the better part of the skirt here.  And look!  I even sort of match, too!

Go me.  And go you.  Go make that skirt!

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